S.Ariunaa: Products Exported From Ulaanbaatar Reek of Smoke and Pollution

An interview with the fashion designer S.Ariunaa, known as Aiunaa Suri by her friends and in the fashion world, who has worked with renowned fashion designers in Germany. 

-Please introduce yourself; where and what school did you graduate from?

-I used to study in the Fashion Design School of the Mongolian University of Science and Technology, and in my second year I went to Germany. In Germany, I got my Bachelors degree at the Berlin Fashion Design School, and my Masters at the Bremen’s Arts School, majoring in fashion design. I have been in Mongolia for a year now.

-You have worked with famous fashion designers. Tell us about where you worked?

- When I was doing my Masters at the University of Arts in Bremen I worked as an assistant fashion designer at the Zero Firm. This company is on equal par with names such as ESPRIT and United Colors of Benetton, but it is more focused towards formal wear. I used to work there three or four times a week, so I graduated in 2008 with high grades. I chose to study arts because in my previous studies, I had learnt mostly the technical aspects of clothing design. I believed arts school would open my mind to more possibilities. 

After I graduated, I worked with Evelin Brandt; she is the godmother of the German fashion world and internationally known. 

-How did you come to work with such an iconic figure?

-Of course I did not work with her right away; first I was a trainee at Evelin’s clothing company. After two weeks she called me to see her. I remember that it was a sunny day. Evelin usually does not call people to her office, so I was a bit anxious. When I entered her office she asked me, “I have seen some of your work and I am interested in you, would you like to do some independent work?” I was shocked, because trainees just measure and cut cloth; basic stuff. I was extremely pleased and immediately told her that it was my dream to do my own work. 

Then one day she called on me and asked my opinion on some clothes. I forgot all my fears and told her my critical assessment of the work. Throughout the process I kept thinking “what if it’s something she did”, but after I finished, she said “That is exactly what I was thinking. You confirmed my thoughts. I like you.” Three weeks later I was working for a big fashion company in Berlin. After this, I was promoted to a full position.

Evelin told me that I was the first person to become a full employee after being a trainee in the company’s history. So I then had my own work space and started working with pencil and paper.

-How long did you work there?

-I worked as a fashion designer for two years. Our firm divides the clothing produced into trendy and classical. I worked with Evelin on the trendy category.

-After two years were you able to make your own collection?

-Evelin Brandt has 200 branches in 14 countries. We focus more on designing unique designer clothing for those who want their own individual look, rather than mass produced products. 

I worked on the summer, spring, fall and winter collections in my two years there. I chose every fabric, thread and even buttons carefully and thoughtfully in my designs. Since it’s a big firm, every article of clothing that we produce is under Evelin. To say that you work for Evelin is very prestigious, and people in the fashion world acknowledge you. 

-Have you met any world famous celebrities, and have you designed for them?

-I did not specifically design clothes for them, but I have worked with a famous German actor Til Schweiger and the President of the Berlin’s Art Academy Klaus Stek . I also participated in Heidi Klum’s fashion show.

-Why did you come back to Mongolia when you worked for a prestigious firm with a high salary?

-Companies such as Gobi and Goyo know I worked there and offered me jobs, or wanted me to send designs from Germany and to work together in some way, and also a home has a very powerful pull. I heard that there was a movement called the “Beehive” project to bring back Mongolians who graduated and work abroad. Lastly I thought I had learnt enough about the fashion industry, and how it works, and wanted to work in my home country.

-How did your co-workers take your decision to work in Mongolia?

-Evelin was shocked for a while, when she heard I wanted to work in Mongolia. She kept asking me “Ariunaa are you sure? Have you thought this through?”But I think she understood in the end. It was clear how hard it was for her. Every time Evelin took me out to a fashion event, she would introduce me as “the future successor of Evelin Brandt.” This is why she was hesitant when thinking of the idea of me leaving.

-Where do you work now?

-I work as the trendy fashion designer of Gobi. I created the winter’s Desert collection and have just released the new spring and summer collections.

-Have you worked with cashmere in Germany? What is working with cashmere like?

-I wanted to use Mongolian cashmere in the clothing for Evelin Brandt’s customers and introduce it into the world market. I even sent my designs to Mongolia to have some cashmere clothing made. But because it was winter, the products had the smell of smoke and pollution. Evelin even exclaimed” Do the workers smoke in the factories?” Evelin Brandt’s clothing costs 500-1000 USD and it’s very high quality; can you imagine the stench of smoke coming from them? This is why my hope was not realised. Even though it took a while for the items to come from Mongolia to Germany, and from there to branches across Europe, the smell of smoke never left the products. It was very disappointing at the time. Since I can’t take the smoke and pollution away from Ulaanbaatar I abandoned the idea. I think the “Made in...” label is a statement of quality. People immediately recognise that “made in Japan, Germany, and France” is of high quality, but when it’s “made in China”, though it could be of high quality, it somehow doesn’t have the same feeling. 

Similar to this we have to be careful about what we brand with the “Made in Mongolia” label. We have to have a good reputation from the get go. There is a saying that “a good name is better than riches”.

-How much opportunity is there for you to improvise in your work here in Mongolia, and how is the salary?

-Since I work in a big company, I have plenty of chances to explore and improvise. I am working hard to reach the next level of cashmere production. The salary is good; I don’t think there are many fashion designers with a salary equal to mine. Prices are high in Mongolia, though I used to rent in Germany I didn’t spend as much as I do here. I wonder sometimes how hard it must be to make do with a salary of 500 thousand MNT, in a society with such high living expenses.

-When we think of fashion, France and Italy pops into our heads, why did you choose Berlin?

-Berlin has become a modern city in recent years. Many celebrities and artists live in Berlin. Everyone has different styles and ways of dressing. There is even a Berlin style. People who want to be unique seem to live in Berlin. This is why Berlin felt right for me.

-You have graduated from an arts school. Do you work with artists and celebrities in Mongolia?

-I made the cashmere dress that the violinist O.Baigal wore after her performance, and I have also designed clothes for the harpist N.Munkh-Erdene. I would like to work with artist in the future.

-Your pen name is Suri. Is this a foreign name?

-No, my father’s name is Surenjav. My mother calls him Suri. That’s why I have used it as my pen name or surname ever since I was a student.