Mongolia without a yurt
An almighty thud reverberated down my spine as I turned to see the man crash to the floor of the bus. It's 11 am in Mongolia and I have just been head-butted by a local so drunk that when he staggered to take his seat, he missed - and accidentally propelled himself onto me. Nobody on the packed bus batted an eyelid. It was as if the overwhelming stench of alcohol had created a force field around him so strong that nobody dared go near.
Eyes wild, face wind-chapped and booze-bloated, he looked equally dazed and confused as he gripped the dirty floor like a child who had lost his step on a bouncy castle.
It was not the lack of compassion from his fellow passengers that troubled the weatherworn fellow, but the location of his bottle of rocket fuel that had fallen away in the melee.
He slurred a rambunctious sentence I couldn't find in my phrase book and even if it existed, I wasn't about to ask him to repeat it. For the next 40 minutes of my bus ride I could feel his breath as if it was burning the skin on my neck, and as we continued along the route picking up more passengers, it was clear he was not alone.
Ulan Bator is like the last Wild West frontier sandwiched between China and Russia, where even in the midst of summer it gets cold at night. For those brave enough to travel in winter, expect temperatures that dip to -40 C.
While it is not uncommon to see people who have had one too many, the contrasts of modern life awkwardly juxtaposed with traditional Mongolian culture make it a fascinating place to visit.
And you don't even have to stay in a yurt anymore.
The traditional wooden circular framed homes, covered with a white felt blanket, have been housing the nomadic tribes since the 13th century to the present day.
But sadly, sometime in the 21st century, the backpacking brigade with their beanies and bongos decided the semi-permanent tents were "cool" and so began a generation of wannabe warriors on yurt gap-year vacations. Unfortunately, for every destination with unspoiled culture, there will always be 10 dreadlocked students with badly tuned guitars.
But rich in vast mineral reserves, Ulan Bator is on the move, and so is the landscape of travelers venturing into this desolate region.
Arriving at Chinggis Khaan International Airport offers an instant impression of the most sparsely populated country on the planet.
Rolling green hills - the stuff of computer screen savers - appear as far as the eye can see. About 3 million people live in this landlocked nation that is slightly smaller than Alaska.
The airport walls are emblazoned with huge portraits of Genghis Khan and his descendant rulers - feared warriors who look as intimidating in paint as the legends depicted in history books.
It was once, and still is, a place of inconceivable contrasts, but the capital Ulan Bator, fueled by trillions in untapped minerals, is witnessing a makeover.
Hotel Blue Sky is the latest skyscraper to emerge from this Soviet-era style landscape. The extraordinary design, like a giant ship's sail of glass in the center of the city, is the latest member of Preferred Hotels and Resorts.
Opened in January 2012, the 200-room Blue Sky is the first world-class hotel to grace this city and caters to those who prefer luxury over roughing it in a circular tent.
Situated on Peace Avenue opposite the central Sukhbaatar Square, the hotel would look completely out of synch if not for the Louis Vuitton store across the street that opened just a year earlier.
Blue Sky Lounge, which occupies the top two floors of the tower, has become the hippest place in town to enjoy a cocktail and unwind with spectacular views of the city.
It is fair to say nobody travels to Mongolia for the food, but luckily the hotel houses five different restaurants to cater to palates from different corners of the world.
Signature Restaurant offers the best of European dining, fine wine and delicious deserts. Le Seoul serves up some Korean treats, Zen offers classic Japanese dishes cooked in front of you in an open kitchen.
Cantonese dishes, some with a Mongolian twist, are offered at Jade Palace, and Seasons is an all-day diner and grill that serves a buffet-style breakfast in the mornings.
The city offers a plethora of cultural sites to visit during the day. If it is real life you are looking for, just take a walk down Peace Avenue and you will stumble onto something amusing. More than 60 percent of the country's population lives in Ulan Bator.
For a slice of history, check out the Bogd Khan Museum or the National History Museum, or head to Gandan Buddhist monastery and feed the thousands of pigeons that flock around this ancient site. Wearing a hat is advised.
To truly witness Ulan Bator in all its glory, head out on a weekend night where wild men and pretty girls party the night away, although this is probably best not done alone.
Metropolis is the happening place for young affluent Mongolians, which means wearing white to display their cleanliness.
Bricks is another hotspot. The bruising doormen at these establishments offer an instant reminder that fighting is another favorite pastime in Mongolia, so try not to step on anyone's toes.
Ulan Bator may not have the charm and elegance found elsewhere in Asia, but behind the wind-chapped faces, gray walls and drunken souls, there's an inner beauty that is hospitable, warm-hearted if not a little slurred.
Contact the writer at leehannon@chinadaily.com.cn.
(China Daily 11/11/2012 page16)
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